Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Glacier Peak is the most remote peak we climb in the Cascade Range. No road penetrates within eight miles of the mountain and many approach hikes are more than 10 miles long. The fall floods of 2003 destroyed many road and trail bridges in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, and many have not yet been rebuilt. At present, the Cool Glacier route, once considered long, has become the most accessible route.
Activity Notes
Glacier Peak is the most remote peak we climb in the Cascade Range. No road penetrates within eight miles of the mountain and many approach hikes are more than 10 miles long. Although one of the highest peaks in the Cascades, looking from Puget Sound, Glacier Peak barely stands out from the lesser surrounding mountains. Glacier Peak is a heavily glaciated eroded volcano that was first climbed in 1889.
The fall floods of 2003 destroyed many road and trail bridges in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, and many have not yet been re-built. At the present time, the Gerdine-Cool Glacier route and/or Disappointment Peak routes, once considered long, have become the most accessible routes, especially in early season, when fording rivers or even large streams would be extremely hazardous (as required for traditional White Chuck trail access).
This strenuous trip involves a long approach, full day to climb, and long return to the trailhead. Anyone going on the climb must be in good condition. Members must also be proficient in crevasse rescue.
The climb is scheduled for three days. However, members should plan to drive up the day before the climb and stay in a nearby hotel or campground, and also plan to camp or stay in a hotel once back at the trailhead and then drive home the next day. Thus, members need to allot a total of five days for this trip.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 270 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| General Route Info | Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Darrington Ranger District Office 360-436-1155 Summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/white-chuck-gerdine-cool-glaciers/166764 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Interesting Features | Glacier(s) |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol.II by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass by Fred Beckey Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | Glacier Peak, USGS 7 minute series Green Trails, #112 (Glacier Peak) Google map https://goo.gl/maps/5Qj7vVNuanK2 Some nice GPS tracks and topo maps by Karl Helser: karl-helser.com |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
