Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Starting with May 1 climbs, Climb Registration Fee includes Mt. St. Helens Permit Fee ($22/person).
This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!
This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.
Activity Notes
This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. Overall the climb involves over 5000 feet elevation gain and 10 miles round trip. We will travel at a fairly slow but steady pace. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious undertaking. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!
Since part of the reward of this climb is the summit views into the crater, I will not do it if the weather forecast is poor. I will be able to reschedule on subsequent days the same week - so applicants should allow for some flexibility in the schedule. Weather forecasts are pretty reliable 48-72 hours in advance.
Climbers are expected to know how to use ice ax and crampons, equivalent to basic climbing school training. They need to be appropriately outfitted with clothing and footwear to handle cold and windy conditions. Since the sun can be very bright on the snow, good sunglasses and sunscreen are essential.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 80 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Distance - Round Trip | 12 miles |
| General Route Info | summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
